What if they damage a leg on the icy floor? Will health problems arise if you keep your horse confined?

Professional yards tend to keep their horses in during the wintry weather due to the safety risk however, if you have a sensible horse who you can turn out onto a pretty flat field, it will be a benefit. Horses are like us humans remember, if they are kept in for a long period of time, they can become grumpy, increase their risk of colic and dust allergies which can result in them being dangerous to handle. It is sensible to turn your horse out if they are not likely to gallop about and the land is not frozen and poached. Don’t forget that snow can weigh down electric fencing tape so will need clearing regularly.

Can I ride in the snow?

As with turning out, riding in the snow is up to the rider’s judgement. By doing things like greasing your horse’s feet with petroleum jelly, this can help stop your horse from slipping. Like turning out, you should ride a horse that does not spook easily.

If possible, head to a beach to exercise your horse or hire an indoor school.

What about the rugs I use on my horse?

Remember to adjust rigs when the weather takes a turn for the better so that your horse doesn’t over heat as well as to protect against mud fever when turning out.

WHW (World Horse Welfare) and the RSPCA recommend that field-kept horses need protection such as a thick hedge or field shelter (http://www.primestables.co.uk/ranges/shelters/mobile-field-shelters/7/)

Keep your horses safe, whatever the weather.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Research: Horse and Hound, World Horse Welfare

Recurrent Airway Obstruction (RAO) can be caused by particles in the air, irritating the inside lining of the nasal passages and lungs. This is caused by tiny particles in the stable and bedding.

Symptoms can include the following:

Nasal discharge, cough, wheezing at exercise (leading to poor performance) and in severe cases, when the horse is at rest.

LOOK OUT FOR MUCAS AROUND THE STABLE OR JUST OUTSIDE WHEN CHECKING YOUR HORSE IN THE MORNING.

What can I do to solve this?

If your horse is sensitive, turning them out may be the best answer to this however, it is understandable that many owners do not have the facilities to do this due to restrictions on land that yards can impose and so you should take adequate measures to ensure the stable is as clean as possible.

Another thing to remember is ventilation. Now I know we like to keep our horses snug and warm and avoid draughts however, there must be air flow into the building to allow the removal of most of the dust and particles.

What about my horse’s bedding?

Try to keep the stable free from any cobwebs as these attract dust. Ensure that any banks used in the beds are clean and are regularly changed to help stop a build up of mould spores. Try to extract any dust from bedding. Paper or cardboard would be your best bet as these are the least likely to attract dust. If you can, AVOID straw and although shavings and woodchip are popular, they MUST be kept spotlessly clean.

Rubber matting is becoming more and more popular as a result of the fact that only a small amount of bedding is required however, it is very important that you take into account the drainage when fitting the rubber mats so that urine can drain away and not become trapped under the mats resulting in ammonia building up. Make sure that the mats are tightly fitted so no liquid can get trapped to avoid the mats moving around under your horses feet.

AVOID deep litter systems because of the harmful ammonia that builds up which is harsh on the nasal passages and lungs as well as it being TOXIC.

If your horse is in livery, be aware of what neighbouring horses have as their bedding as if your horse’s next door neighbour has straw, it can defeat the object of what you are trying to achieve.

When it comes to feeding, use haylage as a forage source or, soak any hay feed for 20-30 minutes before giving to your horse to bind the dust and spores to the stem so that they are swallowed rather than inhaled.

Another method that is sometimes used is steaming. You can use a large clean dustbin and tip a kettle of boiling water or, you can buy one of the new hay steaming devices that are becoming available on the market.

NEVER feed any hay that smells ‘musty’ or stable and has visible patches of mould.

If your horse is very sensitive, diets are available which can replace the hay which is fed soaked to abolish dust. Ensure to keep feed bowls and managers spotless as harmful mould spores can be present in leftover feed stuck to dirty bowls.

If you can, feed your horse from the floor to ensure that your horse is feeding as naturally as possible and allowing any mucus to drain from their nostrils.

What about exercise?

Turn your horse out AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE as the clean air will benefit more than most things as well as the moving around the field. Remember that horses are like us and exercise does them good! As does running around with their friends!

Lastly, remember that if your concerned and your horse’s symptoms are severe, contact your vet. They can prescribe tablets called bronchodilators which help keep airways open and clear.

REMEMBER, MOST IMPORTANTLY KEEP THE AIR YOUR HORSE BREATHES IN CLEAN.

Bear these tips in mind and your horse will have a happy, healthy horse.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Researched: SPR Centre

These buildings have not been used for anything but show building purposes. No animals have been inside them and so, this means they are essentially brand new buildings but at a fraction of the price!

The first building available is a Double Mobile Field Shelter.

Gates not included

7.2m wide x 3.6m deep and on a galvanised steel towing frame, this shelter is perfect for the weather we have been having recently. It does protect your horse against the elements. As it is one of Prime Stables’ largest shelters, it has 2 openings which means you can comfortably fit more than one horse in there.

Normally, this building is £3,310.00 plus delivery and VAT however, Prime Stables are selling it for instant delivery at £2,750.00 plus delivery and VAT. This unit is inclusive of 0.9m overhang as well as front guttering and don’t forget, the price INCLUDES installation too!

The second building available is not one, not two but THREE stables and a tack room. That’s right, three full sized 3.6m x 3.6m stables plus a 1.8m x 3.6m tack room.

Top Door Frame Protection & Overhang Lining Not Included

This build is brand spanking new but the garden centre has asked that it is changed as they want a corner design instead.

It will be removed within the next four weeks and all you have to do is secure it with a holding fee so you can finalise your preparation. If you are in a position to take the stables and tack room now, Prime Stables will rearrange their dismantling

around you and you could get them even sooner.  You can even incorporate it into a larger block!

The buildings normally sell for £4,630.00 plus delivery and VAT however, if you can secure them now, they can be yours for only £3,725.00 plus delivery and VAT. This is a massive saving of £1,086.00 (including VAT).

The third and final building is a Single Mobile Field Shelter on a Timber Towing Frame. This 4.5m x 3.6m shelter also includes the 0.9m overhang, front guttering and the timber towing frame itself with towing points at both ends. Ideal for giving your horse that bit of refuge in the biting winds and torrential downpours to the brilliant sunshine we endure with the notoriously temperamental British weather!

The price for this shelter is normally £1,950.00 plus delivery and VAT but as part of this special offer, f or instant delivery the building will be sold for just £1,660.00 plus delivery and VAT.

REMEMBER! All prices include installation too!

Now, as these buildings are ex-demonstration, there is only ONE available of each and will be sold on a first come, first served basis. So, do not delay in calling Prime Stables on 01403 823 836 to avoid disappointment as they will be snapped up quickly at these outrageous prices!

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Now, horses may reduce their intake of water during the colder weather. If this is combined with a larger intake of food (such as hay), it can result in colic. To avoid this, try to slightly warm your horse’s water up so it encourages them to drink more. The ideal temperature for the water is between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit (as studies have shown that horses will drink much more if the water is between these temperatures) with all ice crystals removed. Also, try to check the water twice a day to make sure it is suitable for your horse to drink as they tend to get through eight to twelve gallons a day.

Another prevention option you can try is to put either a basketball or football in it as this stops the water from freezing over completely. Also, put the trough in the sunniest part of the field (if possible) so the sun can melt any ice that may appear. You can also put a bank of dirt around the trough/bucket to help try and insulate it. If the weather really is bad, you can put plywood over the top (leaving a small gap to drink through).

It may be that you need to buy a water heater. You will have to bear in mind the fact that if you use automatic bowls, heated water buckets or float heaters, you will have to check the heater is not shocking the water. Also, make sure there is plenty of room between the water trough/bucket and fences especially if there is more than one horse sharing it as there can be some scuffle around it and horses may be pushed through fences.

Finally, there is a common belief that horses can ‘get by’ on snow. This may have some truth in it however, horses need lots of hydration to help to digest dry food. By making your horse eat snow to produce moisture can often defeat the object as your horses would have to eat SIX TIMES the amount of snow to provide an equal amount of water. Another thing to consider is that the energy that is used for eating the snow, should be being conserved for keeping warm.

So, bear these tips in mind over the coming months to make sure your horse is happy and hydrated!

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Researched: American Alps Ranch, Gaited Horses

After speaking with the Prime Stables Team, they have informed me that throughout the nine years they have been going, they have supplied shelters as dog kennels, alpaca shelters and what is becoming more popular within recent years, to be used for storage.

The mobile field shelter itself can be any size up to 10.8m long. The reason behind it going to up that size is that we know anything up to that is towable (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dnmlis6Bagc).

Prime Stables can do any kind of design on your shelter. It is totally up to you. You can include a tack room on the side, have the building lined with plywood, they can put in a floor and incorporate windows.

A mobile field shelter can be used for almost anything your heart desires. You can add gates on the front of them or stable fronts. The list goes on as these buildings are made to cater for your needs.

Lastly, the best feature of a mobile field shelter? You do not need planning permission of course! (See http://blog.primestables.co.uk/horse-shelter for more information).

Don’t forget to look on the Mobile Field Shelter tab to see the mobile buildings http://www.primestables.co.uk/ranges/shelters/mobile-field-shelters/7/.

So, if you have a field or a large garden where you need to store garden machinery or even if your garage is over flowing and you need some more space, give Prime Stables a call today on 01403 823 836.

‘Like’ us on Facebook http://www.facebook.com/pages/Prime-Stables-Ltd/253712198016905 and follow us on Twitter @primestables for instant updates and the first look at our special offers!

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

We have also donated to the Shooting Star CHASE Children’s Hospice. A cause which cares for local families with a child or teenager with a life-limiting condition living in western London, Surrey and West Sussex.

The Prime Stables Team are finishing today for Christmas but don’t panic, they are back on Tuesday 3rd January 2012.

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from all at Prime Stables!

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Santa is coming to town!

This week, the Prime Stables Team have informed me that they put up a 10.8m Mobile Field Shelter for reindeer! The three reindeer that will be using the shelter are called Dancer (because the previous owner has a dance class), Velvet (fur like velvet) and Spot (because his fur is white with one brown spot). Ms Sally Begg is the owner of the reindeer (and of two fallow deer) and originally got them to set up a Santa’s Grotto in her field however, with the hustle and bustle of Christmas, time went to quickly so they are now going to be used at her local outdoor ice rink over the festive period for children to see and stroke.

A little bit of information on reindeer.

Reindeer are classified as a ruminant mammal. Ruminant mammals are even-toed, cud-chewing, hoofed, usually horned mammals which have 4 compartments (sometimes 3) of their stomach. The hooves are large and sharp enabling them to travel long distances which consist of snow and ice with large dewclaws which sink into the snow to aid traction. This also helps them to dig for food.

Reindeer have thick winter coats of hollow hairs which provides good insulation and mean they are good swimmers as they have natural buoyancy.  They also have hair covering their nose to prevent them from getting frostbite.

In reindeer, there is a tendon which rubs over the bone in the ankle which makes a clicking noise when walking to help each other keep track of one another in blizzards. (This clicking develops at approximately 12 months)

What makes reindeer different?

Reindeer are the only mammals that can see ultraviolet light and the only deer where both sexes grow antlers.

Reindeer antlers are deciduous.  The antlers of the older males come off in December, young males in early Spring and females in the summer time. Don’t worry though as they grow back again every year under a layer of fur called velvet.

Antlers grow from permanent bones on the reindeer’s skull called pedicles. When growing, antlers are a soft, rubbery, living mass of blood and marrow covered with velvet skin. Nerves grow at the same rate as the antler, which can feel quite warm during the growing process due to the blood circulating so close to the surface. Reindeer are very sensitive about anything touching their antlers whilst they are in velvet. Antlers grow from the tip unlike horns which grow from the base.

At the end of August, blood stops flowing through the antler and the bone begins to harden. The reindeer will then begin vigourously rubbing the velvet off, with rutting bulls it can take only 24 hours before the velvet is totally stripped. Reindeer cows keep their antlers longer than bulls in order for them to become dominant over the winter period, thus ensuring that they and their calves get the best food through the winter.

So this Christmas, don’t forget to leave out that extra carrot for the reindeer with your mince pie for Santa Claus on Christmas Eve so they keep their strength up to deliver all the presents to the good boys and girls around the world!

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Researched: Freespace, Facts About

The most common cause of equine blindness is Equine Recurrent Uveitus (ERU). Uveitus translates as inflammation inside the eye which is common in may eye ailments and most cases recover however, the difference with ERU is that there a re repeated attacks and this often happens when a horse is either reaching or at the peak of it’s career.

Signs of ERU:

Swollen eyelids

Sensitivity to light

A cloudy cornea

Colour changes in the iris

A constricted pupil

Material within the front chamber of the eye such as blood, fibrin or pus

Reddening around the eye

A yellow-green discolouration deep within the eye

Pain, which shows as eye closure and increased tearing

EXAMPLE

Richard Barrett, who was a grand prix dressage rider and his star horse Alcatraz. Alcatraz had cataracts in his right eye. One day in spring in 2008,  his left eye swelled up and closed, he was rubbing his eye against one leg and shaking head around He wasn’t acting himself , said Barrett.

The vet suspected uveitis and when Alcatraz had another attack some time later, suspicions were confirmed. Barrett wasn’t aware that uveitis affected Alcatraz in training as he was living with cataracts beforehand. It was a case of managing the problem to stop recurrence.

Alcatraz wore a special UV filter mask when in sunshine for long periods of time and was given eye drops daily. The vet suggested lenses may help but at 19, they thought it wasn’t fair to put Alcatraz through any more treatment unnecessarily.

Alcatraz was put down due to uveitis and Cushing’s last July.

How Do I Treat My Horse?

Overall, the prognosis is fair to poor for keeping the eye visual and controlling the uveitis, especially in Appaloosas. Treatment is usually lifetime and can take much time and money, but it prolongs comfort and vision in most cases. It is important to understand that if the eye is blind and painful, it should be removed by your vet. Some offer surgical treatment of ERU if the eye is still visual, in which a portion of the vitreous humor (the gel-like substance in the back chamber of the eye) is surgically removed. This is called core vitrectomy.

Medical treatment is by far most commonly prescribed, and can include topical corticosteroid ointment or drops, subconjunctival steroid injections, topical and/or systemic nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory medications, topical dilating drops, and/or systemic antibiotics if an active leptospirosis infection is suspected (but this treatment is controversial). It is important to realize that medical treatment is usually lifetime, even if the uveitis is controlled. If medication is discontinued or decreased without input from your veterinarian, the horse will likely have a repeat attack, and the attack will probably be a severe one. Each attack of uveitis is cumulative; that is, the damage from each attack adds on to the damage from all previous attacks, and brings the eye that much closer to blindness and potential removal.

Consistent treatment is important!

So, keep an ‘eye’ out for your horse!

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Researched: Horse and Hound magazine, Animal Eye Care LLC

We all know that we should wear ‘high-vis’ clothing when hacking out however, it is even more important in the darker and gloomier weather so we are easier to see for oncoming traffic.

There are two types of reflective clothing – fluorescent and reflective.  Fluorescent is the bright, “day-glo” colour which can come in green, orange, pink etc (think highlighter pens and you’re there!) They are the best colours to wear in the day time as the sun’s ultra-violet light reacts with them so they appear to glow where as reflective clothing is best at night as the lights from the cars and street lamps bounce off the grey/silver parts back towards drivers, making them aware of you.

A good idea that I have seen when it comes to being more visible when riding on the roads is the new ‘POLITE’ range of clothing. As shown in the photograph, on the clothing, the word POLITE appears in large, block capital letters accompanied by the chequered blue and silver squares which at a quick glimpse, can look like the police (especially with the squares). This seems to have been designed to catch the driver’s attention and make them slow down without even thinking about it because they associate the design with the police which (usually!) automatically makes people slow down.

The main reason why high-vis items of clothing are bright colours is also so that us riders do not blend in with the surroundings. It is so that we do stick out and are more obvious to other road users.

So, as the well known saying goes, be safe and be seen. Wear reflective and fluorescent clothing when out and about with your horse.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

References: tamcmontery.co.uk, DirectGov, BrightKidz,

‘The soldier came to regard his horse almost as an extension of his being.’

J M Brereton, the author of The Horse in War.

With Remembrance Sunday just behind us and the up coming release of Michael Morpurgo’s ‘The War Horse’ , I thought it would be topical to do a piece on just how much horses were used throughout war.

Horses were heavily used in World War One and their main use was for transport. The BEF (British Expeditionary Force) were stationed in France and relied heavily on horses.

It is thought that of the one million horses sent into WW1, only 67,000 returned.

These horses and mules were used for different jobs depending on their height and weight. The smaller horses and mules (between 15hh 2ins and 16hh, weighing up to 1,200lbs) were used for ‘light draught’ jobs such as to pull light artillery limbers, wagons and ambulances, to carry supplies and munitions, or to perform other important odds and ends – either individually or in teams.

'Goodbye Old Man' by Fortunino Matania

Larger horses such as shires were put together to carry larger artillery pieces but were replaced as time went on due to guns expanding and needing tractors and bigger vehicles to pull them.

With such large numbers of animals, food was an issue. The normal ration for a light draught horse during a ‘normal’ spell in France was 12lbs of oats, 10lbs of hay and some bran for a bran mash at least once a week. However, as we all know, horses need food to keep their strength up and without it or with very little of it, horses tend to get weaker, like us humans. During the war, cries of ‘saddler – a plate and a punch’ could be heard which meant that the saddler was needed to put another hole in the girth of a horse as it has got too big.

Accommodation for the animals also became an issue as in the summer, picket lines sufficed, during the winter months, the Army were in the tricky situation of whether to clip the equines and risk pneumonia or keep their long, shaggy coats to keep them warm but would risk them getting infectious skin diseases. The decision was made to clip the coats which then resulted in losing many mules and horses in the first winter. Then because of this, it became standard Army procedure to clip just the legs and bellies from 1918.

Much care was taken over the horses and the mules because soldiers understood just how hard they were working. They witnessed the fatigue and disease which sometimes overcame their animals and so, Convalescent Horse Depots were built. These were buildings where the animals could be taken for treatment and cure. If tiredness was the problem, they were allowed respite in the form of large, open fields rather than a muddy, bloody war ground.

Ten day courses of lectures were arranged to soldiers on how to care for the horses and mules should they get ill because with the lack of professionally trained vets, a soldier with even basic training on equine science could spot a minor ailment and this could be treated before it became serious and incurable.

Also to ensure the well-being of our animals, chief horse-masters were appointed and below those, sub-ordinate horse masters were also appointed. Experts in horses and stable management, they were the ones to turn to when advice was needed. They were also the ones in charge of watching over those working with horses and sorted out any soldiers who were either incapable or negligent in caring for the animals.

Due to the Veterinary Corps, should a British Army equine be taken out of line, it had a 78% chance of recovery and return of active service. Bearing in mind the fact that veterinary science is no where near as advanced as human science; this seems amazing and proves that the ‘Royal’ prefix that the Veterinary Corps received was entirely deserved.

So when you hear about the goings on around the world with all the hate and the violence, remember the innocent victims of the war that are not always noted. The horses and mules that gave their lives for us too. Lest we forget.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Research: History, First World War

As we all know, British weather can be turbulent at the best of times. Winter can be beautiful sunshine one minute and treacherous snow the next. From the looks of the recent weather reports, it looks like the weather is going to be white all over the UK leading up to and after Christmas so, how are you going to look after your horse in these blustery, snowy conditions?

Now, although horses have a natural hardiness to their coats and bodies due to the long years experiencing all weathers, horse owners should also supplement with other things.

Thoroughbreds and Arabs, are well able to cope with our hot summers as a result of being from hot countries, but are not equipped for British Winters. They do not use their nutritional energy as efficiently, do not tend to store so much fat and do not grow such a thick winter coat. Owners of warm blooded horses like to stable their equines overnight to shelter them from the weather. Even in a stable, most of the finer breeds will need a rug and plenty of food. There is no reason, however, why even a pure bred Arab or Thoroughbred cannot live out all year round with appropriate care. By providing a field shelter, a good quality winter rug and a well thought out diet, the balance between energy intake and energy output should be manageable throughout the colder months.

FEED

First of all, look at what you are feeding your horse. Like us humans, horses need more food in the winter as it can be stored as fat to insulate their bodies. The grass that your horse has consumed over the summer and the warmer part of autumn will help to keep your horse nicely rounded but as soon as the frost hits and snow falls, the grass will no longer be available and the weight they have gained. To help this start offering hay or haylage to horses at grass to minimise the change to the diet once grass growth slows. This is important in all horses but particularly in pregnant mares and young stock. For horses in work, the heavy conditions underfoot mean they have to work harder. Combined with a drop in grazing quality, this means that they require more feed and forage to keep weight on. The mild, warm autumn has also led to an increase in the activity of stored pests, such as mite, which thrive in these environments. Good feed hygiene and clearing up all spillages will help guard against unwanted creepy crawlies. For horses out wintering at grass and in good condition, use a vitamin and mineral supplement to maintain essential micronutrient supplies.

RUGS

Different breed requirements, age, health and living environment go some way towards explaining why some horses are rugged and some not. Some working horses will be clipped in winter to prevent them becoming uncomfortable when being ridden or driven which means they will need a rug to compensate. A horse that is adapted well to cold temperatures may become uncomfortably hot if rugged unnecessarily and horses in general actually find it harder than humans to cool down once they have overheated, because their bodies are so efficient at keeping the heat in.

Because horses can sweat so much when wearing a rug, they should be removed once a day to check underneath as the nice, warm, damp area can lead to skin problems. Also, natural hair loss can accumulate under a rug which can be itchy and unpleasant for your horse.

By removing the rug, you can check underneath it on both the body and the underside of the rug. This can also help in checking if your horse has lost any weight.

WATER

With regards to water, most people tend to think horses need more in the summer however, in contrast to us humans; they need more in the winter. This is because when horses eat the grass in the winter, it consists of 80% water whereas in the winter, as a result of the horses eating hay and haylage, this dehydrates them more and so need water. However, with the freezing temperatures, the water is likely to freeze over in the winter so to ensure this doesn’t happen, from first thing in the morning, regularly check your horse’s water.

SHELTER

With the cold winter fast approaching, shelter is important to protect horses from the harsh conditions. Mobile field shelters (see http://www.primestables.co.uk/ranges/shelters/mobile-field-shelters/7/) are particularly useful as they can be towed (see http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8yAonx56q4A), you don’t need planning permission for them and they provide shelter for your horse without the need of a concrete base.  Shelter is also useful in the summer for providing shade for your horses to keep them out of the sun.

SUMMARY

• Mud can be unavoidable during the winter. Unless the mud is causing or looking like a veterinary condition, the owner is within the law.
• Horses will often deliberately roll in mud to help create an extra layer to protect them from the elements.
•  Most native ponies would become obese if they were to have access to unlimited quantities of food, even in very cold weather. An equine needs the right amount of food to keep it in good bodily condition. Look at the body of your horse or pony to check if it is in good condition: if so, it means that they are getting enough food.

So, in conclusion, keep your horses happy this winter with plenty of shelter, nutrition and appropriate horse style clothing!

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Research: Horse and Hound, Redwings Horse Sanctuary

The record for the oldest pony is 56. Sugar Puff, a 10hh Shetland-Exmoor gelding – owned by Sally Botting. Sugar Puff died in May 2007 following complicated problems with his health.

As a nation, we love our horses and as a result of this, the population of older horses and ponies is constantly growing. With the rising amount of horse sanctuaries becoming apparent (which are aimed at older horses and ponies), this means our four legged friends are living longer. This is in stark contrast to the past where once a horse’s uses were finished and could only be pets rather than working animals, they were shot and fed to the hounds or sold as meat.

This occurred in the war. At the end, most of the surviving horses were sold on as horse meat to Belgian butchers, being dismissed as unfit for any other purpose. This couldn’t be further from where we are today.

So, how do you know how old your horse is?

For young horses, one year is equal to about 3.5 years of a human’s life. So, a 10-year-old horse is equivalent to a 35-year-old human. The ratio changes slightly as horses get older, when one year is equal to about 3 human years: so a 20-year-old horse is equal to a 60-year-old human.

The things to look out for when your horse is beginning to age are:

- A sway/dipped back

- A drooping lower lip

- Deepening grooves around the eyes with grey hair

- Significant weight loss – slimmer horses can be more susceptible to parasite problems and disease. Also, once older horses begin to get thinner, it can be impossible for them to reach their correct body condition as before.

- Lameness due to arthritis

One common occurrence in our older friends is arthritis in at least one joint. It can be seen as stiffness or lameness but can be helped by exercise. However, animals with arthritis can get worse in the cold weather. If you imagine it like when the weather is cold, your hands tend to freeze up because the joints get stiff. This is similar to a horse except for a horse it can be worse. Arthritis is usually the most common reason for a horse to retire.

Low doses of Bute medication can be used for arthritic horses however, a side affect can be liver damage in the long term. Another thing that has to be considered with medicating your horse is that if he/she needs a high dose to keep them comfortable, you have to think about the welfare of the horse and that in regards to keeping them alive.

Other more natural tonics are cider vinegar (a daily ounce) and copper bangles (attached to leather for safety reasons and around the hoof area).

Now, when it comes to feeding an older horse, this requires more due and attention.
Research has recently shown that older horses can’t digest protein, phosphorus and fibre as well as their younger equivalents. If you think that your older horse is doing ok then a change may not be necessary but, research shows that protein and phosphorus levels may still need to be increased. The main aim for an older horse to keep healthy in regards to feeding is a higher quality, more digestible feed. As well as this, ensuring that your older horse or pony is remaining on a good quality pasture throughout the warmer months can help their nutrition as long as their body is in correct condition.

However, you need to bear in mind when turning out your older horses and ponies that they could fear being hurt by other animals. To solve this you can either put him/her in a group where he/she is less likely to get bullied or you can feed them separately.

Horses tend to live better outside where they have the room to canter freely around. They have all the grass they could wish for and plenty of room to burn it all off again! Watch out for the signs of liver damage though such as: weight loss, excessive yawning, lethargy and lack of interest in hard food as well as total anorexia and neurological signs i.e. head pressing.

Like us, as horses get older, they require even more TLC and attention. They can be moody like us because their bodies aren’t quote how they used to be but if you keep an eye on them and look after them; they will flourish into their retirement years.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Research: Horse and Hound, Vet Stream

The most accurate method of weighing your horse is on an equine specific weighbridge, which will provide an accurate calculation of bodyweight. However, these facilities are not widely accessible.

A public weighbridge may be available but this environment may not be very safe to unload a horse in. Public weighbridges are normally designed for larger
weights so you would need to drive your lorry with the horse inside onto the weighbridge and record the weight.

The horse can then be removed and the lorry re-weighed. The weight of the horse can then be determined by subtracting the second result from the first.

Many horse owners and carers do not have access to weighing facilities, which is why using a weigh tape or a weight formula are the most practical solutions.

Monitoring body weight

Having an accurate idea of your horse’s bodyweight is important for a number of reasons;

To calculate your horse’s ration or pony at a healthy weight by adjusting feed and grazing accordingly.

To accurately identify weight loss and weight gain.

To identify any sudden weight loss which may indicate a health problem.

To enable the correct dosage and administration of medication, supplements and When you see a horse or pony everyday it can be very difficult to identify changes.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Research: The BHS Welfare Department

Roughly 72,000 various different vehicles are likely to be affected with this new policy.

How will I be affected by the changes in emission costs?

Long gone are the days in which you could load up your horsebox and take it wherever you like with the only thing you had to worry about was what you were putting into it, not what it was breathing out.

From 3^rd January 2012, horsebox owners will have to take in to account the new charges for driving in the Low Emission Zone which covers most of Greater London.

Boxes which were registered as new before 2002 and weighing between 1.025 (unladen) to 3.5 tonnes (gross vehicle weight) will no longer meet LEZ standards.

 Transport for London (TfL) have stated that fitting a Ford Transit horsebox with a new filter to fit the standards will cost approximately £1500 whereas Michael Beal from JMB Horsepower estimated that a horsebox manufacturer plus a repair company would cost closer to £2500.

As well as this, all filters sold, must be tested and adhere to the rules of the Vehicle and Operator Services Agency.

Horseboxes which currently meet the standard, will feel emission requirements tighten from January 3^rd.

Non-compliant vehicle owners will have to ‘pay as they go’ at either £100 (for vehicles below 3.5 tonnes) or £200 (for vehicles over 3.5 tonnes) per day they venture into the LEZ.

Those who own horseboxes who already live in the LEZ must adapt their lorry or risk a £500 fine.

The British Horse Society have said that there are around 55 licensed riding centres in Greater London which will mean that a lot of people will have to change their vehicles in order to match the criteria in which will be the law.

So don’t forget, when travelling to and from shows or just in and out of Greater London in your horsebox, make sure that you and your vehicle are on the right side of these new emission restrictions.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Researched: Horse and Hound magazine

A study was carried out by the Royal agricultural college (RAC). They analysed a small population of crib-biting horses during a period of inactivity during the day time.

They found that on average, the horses were performing 11 crib-bites every five minutes.

when these horses were given a concentrated palatable fee, this rate went up to 24 counts and carried on for around 40 minutes.

Curiously when these same horses were fed a forage meal instead, the cribbing levels were reduced to only five counts. This reduction persisted for 50 minutes before going back to the original 11 count.

Their study concluded that highly palatable feeds, monitored by texture, volume and taste have been liked to the release of pleasure hormones or (endorphins).

So how does this translate into undesirable equine stereotype behaviours such as crib-biting?

The RAC research suggests that crib-biting arises partly due to stress-induced increases in endorphin sensitivity. Following the initial development of crib-biting behaviour, these endorphin releases can lead to extended bouts of this undesirable habit.

So, what can we as horse owners take from this. I think it is interesting that the concentrated feed raises the amount of crib-biting. If your horse is suffering with this vice, why not have a look at his diet, change it and monitor him to see if there are any behavioral changes.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

A fully mobile shelter that has a store room added on to one end.

You can keep your sheep inside the shelter and all those little bits and pieces that are needed are kept securely locked away in the added storage area.

What makes this building so good is the storage room is integrated into the shelter and is raised up above ground level, which not only keeps your feed stuff dry, but you are also still able to tow the shelter to another location  in your field or smallholding.

If the wind changes or your work area gets a little bit muddy , just hook it up and tow it to another part of the field, just 10 foot or over 3 or 4 acres its simple.

The fantastic benefit that this combined mobile field shelter and store has is, it does not require any planning permission because it is fully mobile.

For a building to require planning permission it does need to have ground works done. But with this shelter there aren’t any ground works.

Just tow it to a reasonably flat area, unhitch it and start using it. it’s that simple.

There a four different sizes ranging from 6.0m x 3.1m to 7.2 x 3.6m.

Check your gate widths. If you have 10ft wide gates you will need a 3.1m deep lambing shelter

Each design has a 1.8m wide storage room. If you want the storage room wider or smaller, Prime Stables will build to your needs. They can do this as all buildings are hand made to order.

They deliver all over the uk and Northern Europe and will generally supply with in 3-7 days of an order.

To read why this lambing building does not need planning permission click http://blog.primestables.co.uk/horse-shelter grab a cup off coffee and read.

If you are about to start your lambing season this could be a real help.

Prices start at £3460.00 + vat for the 6.0 x 3.1m size

Call Prime on 01403 823 836 or send them an email on enquiries@primestables.co.uk

Enjoy the Spring and happy Lambing

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Feeding And Management Should Your Horse Get Laminitis

It is quite Common that horse owners are led to believe that they should starve a horse or pony that has laminitis, but would you starve an ill person?

I believe it is vital that the horse or pony with laminitis receives a fibrous diet supplemented that has sufficient minerals and vitamins to keep the horses metabolism working well.
It is vital to remove the cause of the disease. Do not starve the animal completely or you may risk inducing hyperlipeamia. This occurs when high levels of fat are released into blood in response to starvation.
Use an alfalfa or alfalfa/straw chaff as this will provide much needed calcium in the diet. It has been suggested that laminitics are calcium deficient.

Feed an alfalfa based chaff with a mineral and vitamin supplement as a compliment to hay and water. By doing this you will  minimise the risk of  laminitis.

Prevention is by far preferable to cure

It is important to reduce the exposure the horse has to causes of laminitis. Do not allow your pony or horse to get too fat.
Ensure your farrier is called to trim the feet regularly and restrict grazing especially in the spring and be aware there is often a grass flush in the autumn.
Use a muzzle for short periods if you are unable to strip graze or manage the pasture. If you use one with a grid on the bottom this will allow the horse to drink and nibble.
I would recommend that you provide hay and/or straw if your horse is stabled or in a bare paddock. Feed a low carbohydrate, high fibre diet and do consider using a mineral and vitamin supplement to provide a balanced diet if you are feeding below recommended quantities of compound feed.

Identifying Laminitis

Commonly you will notice that the horse shifts weight from side to side and will have difficulty walking. You will notice that his hooves will feel warm to touch and there may be a strong pounding pulse at the digital artery around fetlock.
Another sure sign to watch out for is if you notice that your horse rocks back off of his front feet so as to keep his weight off of them.

Here are six simple steps to help prevent Laminitis

1.Feed liberal quantities of forage.
2.Make changes in concentrate feed slowly over at least a two-week period.
3.Keep all concentrate feeds small, under 2.5kgs per feed for a 16hh horse and keep the feed under 1.5kg for a 13hh horse.

4. If more feed is needed add another meal later.
5.Watch your horse’s weight. If he is obese, try to control his  feed intake.
6.Try to feed your horses with a high oil, high fibre coarse mix or feed a high fibre cube.

Management of a Laminitic

Feed bulk roughage with a low feed value, such as oat straw and
reduce the hay and bulk out with straw which will bulk out his food. Turn out on sand arenas for some of the time and if you have no other turn out is available use electric fencing to restrict access to rich grass.
If you can, get some sheep or cattle to keep the grass down.
Increase the horses workload before increasing feed and use oil as an energy source i.e. Soya Oil or Pure Vegetable Oil.
Feed little and often, so you do not overload the stomach and do not overfeed or feed in anticipation of work.
Do not turn your horses out on frosted paddocks and consider whether you should turn out on bare paddocks. You may find that using a muzzle on less stressed pastures may be better.

Feeding the Laminitic

When your horse/pony has had laminitis you should feed at least 1% of body weight as forage ie hay and or oat straw. Split this into frequent meals and feed him small meals.

 
Feed a suitable supplement to provide all the necessary vitamins and minerals. As your horse/pony recovers consider the following to decrease risk of another attack.

Keep cereals in the diet to a minimum and use slow releasing energy sources such as fibre and oil.

Now I am sure you have gone gaga reading all this.  Just simply break this advice down in to bite size pieces and keep it simple and you will be ok. 

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Horses that develop a taste for buttercups can end up with an excess of saliva, sometimes mild colic and also diaorhea. Consumption levels do have to be high though, before any untoward symptoms are seen. Don’t panic too much as consuming the odd buttercup plant is not likely to be harmful.

How Do I Manage My Pastures?

You will need a herbicide and a change in management to remove buttercups from your pasture. Buttercups thrive in poor soil conditions. You may well find killing the current crop will only make room for more to grow. Change your management to prevent them taking over.

The most appropriate way to tackle tall-growing weeds such as buttercups is by “weed-wiping”, whereby a chemical weed-killer is smeared on to the leaves and stem of the plant from a wick attached to the tank holding the appropriate herbicide. The plant then absorbs the chemical through its leaves and dies from the inside out.

To encourage grass to grow, active grassland management will be needed, including applying a low level of appropriate fertiliser.

Your Horses Safety

It is essential that you remove your horses from the pasture for at least two weeks after “weed-wiping” to allow the full effects of the weed killer to take affect and to ensure that all residue of the chemicals used have dissipated making your pasture grass safe for them to eat once again.

Make sure that the herbicide application is done by a British Agrochemical Supply Industry Scheme (BASIS) accredited person. They are qualified to advise on appropriate herbicides. Most agricultural retailers either employ or have access to qualified people.

Dry Buttercups

The good news is buttercups aren’t poisonous when they are dry, so don’t worry if you find them in hay or haylage. All they will do is dilute the nutritional value of the hay.

In short the occasional buttercup will not do any harm, but if your horses are grazing in fields full of buttercups then this is the time to take action.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

The true cause of laminitis is still unclear, but there are a number of situations that may lead to the condition. Set out below are the more well known causes.

Please add to this list by posting a comment. Other readers really will benefit from your experiences, and if we can save one horse from suffering unnecessarily then it will be worthwhile.

Most common known causes of laminitis are:-

Excess Of Rich Grass
Typically this is grass high in soluble carbohydrate in the spring and Autumn. Feed overload when a horse breaks into a feed bin for example or when a horse is given very large meals.

Obesity.
Overweight animals will be more susceptible to laminitis.

Toxaemia
For example toxins circulating in the blood stream. This can be caused by a number of things such as diarrhoea, peritonitis or metritis form a retained placenta after foaling.

Trauma
Excess concussion (driving horses are particularly prone) or uneven weight bearing when one limb is immobilised due to an injury can cause an attack.

Some Drugs
Particularly corticosteriods, may result in increased constriction in the arteries of the foot which will restrict blood flow.

Stress
This may make horses more prone to developing laminitis. When stressed from a long journey for example, a horse will release higher levels of corticosteroid hormones which may have a similar effect to administered steroids.

Dietary Contribution
An excess of lush grass, or an overload of hard feed can lead to laminitis. The path of events that leads to this laminitis is thought to be as follows:

Too much food in the stomach
Soluble carbohydrate that should be digested in the small intestine overflows into the hind gut.The bacterial balance in the hind gut is upset and bacteria that prefer soluble carbohydrate proliferate and take over from fibre-digesting bacteria.

Death and rupture of the fibre-digesting bacteria due to acid conditions leads to endotoxins (poisons) being released. The acid environment also makes the gut wall more permeable (leaky) and toxins enter the blood stream.
Blood circulation and pressure is affected and laminitis will follow.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

There are numerous types of worms that use the horse as a host during their lifecycle.  The degree of damage to the horse depends on the type of worm, its lifecycle,whether it remains inside the gut or migrates round the body, the number of worms present and the horse’s health and immune status.

An appropriate worming programme, with regular treatment, is absolutely essential and an effective worm control depends on breaking the cycle of infection.

THREADWORMS and PINWORMS

During the first few weeks of life foals are susceptible to this very small worm which can cause severe diarrhoea. Dormant infections in pregnant mares are transmitted to the foal via the milk. Mares should be wormed around the time of foaling and foals may need worming from 4 weeks old.

The adult worms migrate to the horse’s rectum where they lay their eggs on the skin around the outside of the anus.This can cause intense irritation; the horse scratches and rubs its anal region.The eggs are then shed onto the pasture or bedding. Persistent scratching can result in loss of hair from the dock and the development of sores and open wounds.

Tapeworms are found in the large intestine and congregate around the narrow junction of the small and large intestine (ileo-caecal valve).  Most infections do not necessarily produce obvious symptoms of ill health, howeverthey can cause digestive disturbances, loss of condition and are strongly associated with colic.
LUNGWORMS, TAPEWORMS, BOTS, WORM CONTROL and WORMERS

To maintain horse health and performance an effective worm control programme is essential.The objective is to break the cycle of infection and keep the horse’s worm burden to a minimum.

These commonly affect donkeys but can also affect horses; usually where horses share grazing with donkeys. Infected horses show obvious clinical respiratory signs, such as persistent coughing. Larvae are ingested from the pasture and migrate through the blood stream to the lungs where they develop into egg-laying adults. Eggs are coughed up, swallowed and passed out in the dung.

Bot flies are a common irritant to horses at grass. These large flies typically lay their sticky yellow eggs on the horse’s forelegs and around the head.The eggs are licked up by the horse and hatch?

Where do they hatch?. The larvae eventually reach the stomach where they attach to the lining. Large numbers can cause digestive disorders and, occasionally, perforation of the stomach.

Wormers play an essential part in effective worm control.  The active ingredient is the chemical component of the wormer that kills the parasite. There are numerous brands of wormer on the market; however there are only four families of active ingredients:

Macrocyclic lactones (ML) – e.g. ivermectin as used in Eqvalan‚ & Eqvalan‚ Duo and moxidectin.

Benzimidazole – e.g. fenbendazole

Pyrimidines – e.g. pyrantel

Praziquantel – as used in combination with ivermectin, or as a single entity presentation.

The introduction of combination wormers containing more than one active ingredient e.g. ivermectin plus praziquante as used in Eqvalan‚ Duo, means that Roundworms,Tapeworm and Bots can now be treated with one dose.

Certain strains of Small Redworms have been confirmed as having developed resistance to benzimidazoles and pyrantel based products.Different wormers also control different stages in the lifecycle of these parasites. Some control only adults while others control both the adult and larval stages.

Wormers have different treatment intervals in order to control pasture contamination. For example, some need to be used every 4 to 6 weeks while others can be used every 8 to 10 weeks or more.

It is necessary to know the active ingredients of the various wormers used; not just the brand name. With this information a worming programme can be designed that suits the needs of individual horse(s) throughout the year. If horses are to be kept together, it is recommended that all animals are on the same programme.

Wormers come in the form of pastes, gels, liquids and granules.  Pastes and gels come in oral syringes for ease of administration. Granules and liquids can be mixed into the horse’s feed. Wormers should be stored correctly and should not be used if the expiry date has passed.

Effective pasture management is a major part of worm control.  If possible do not allow paddocks to become over-grazed and ‘horse-sick’.  This is where eggs, passed in the droppings, hatch into infective larvae that can accumulate to dangerous levels.  Bear in mind when rotating paddocks that worm eggs and larvae can survive on a pasture from the autumn until mid-summer the following year.

Always provide sufficient pasture for the number of grazing animals.  The BHS recommends 1 to 1.5 acres per horse, this will vary greatly depending on the hours the pasture is grazed, provision for stabling etc. Where possible, sub-divide the grazing area into smaller paddocks and rotate the horses around the paddocks at regular intervals.  It makes sense to worm the horses before you move them to clean pasture.

Regular collection of dung from the pasture helps prevent the development of latrine areas and reduces the potential build up of larvae on the pasture. Droppings should be collected at least twice a week during the spring and summer (May – October) and once a week in the winter. Harrowing the pasture during dry weather can also be beneficial.

Droppings should not be allowed to accumulate in or around stables and shelters. Horses should not be permitted access to muck heaps nor should horse manure or stable waste be used to ‘fertilise’ horse paddocks.
PASTURE MANAGEMENT & GENERAL HUSBANDRY

Do not feed horses on the ground; provide suitable feed containers and do not re-feed hay that has been dragged through soiled bedding.  Keep all feeding utensils and water containers clean.  This is important where they are contaminated with droppings. Worm eggs are very hardy and some can survive for many years within stables.Stables should be kept clean.  Scrub floors and walls regularly.
PRACTICAL WORMING

It is essential that the weight of the horse is known. Horses should be wormed according to their bodyweight. Using a weighbridge is the most reliable method of determining a horse’s weight but weigh tapes can also be used as a rough guide.  Always read the manufacturer’s instructions and follow their recommendations.  They will clearly state the dose to be used. Different wormers have different treatment intervals.

Plan your annual worming programme in advance and keep an accurate record of when horses are wormed and the name of the product and active ingredient in the product used.

Inadequate, inappropriate or infrequent worming can seriously affect the horse’s health and well-being. All horses and ponies that graze together should be wormed at the same time, using the same product. It is important, in a yard, to have a communal worming programme that is strictly followed by all owners.

RESISTANCE

Small Redworms are now widely resistant to benzimidazoles-based products. In addition resistance to pyrantel based wormers has been confirmed. If you are concerned that these products may no longer be working ask your vet to check by doing a ‘faecal egg count reduction test’.This test can also be used to check the effectiveness of your worming programme.

Some authorities advise using only one type of wormer (active ingredient) throughout the grazing season (April– September) with a change of wormer, containing a different active ingredient, the following year. However annual rotation may be inadvisable where resistance to one or more groups of wormer has been reported.

In addition recent published reports suggest that using moxidectin more than once a year may accelerate the rate of development of resistance to the macrocyclic lactone group of wormers.

At specific times of year it may be necessary to control either Tapeworm or Bots. Treat for Tapeworm in October using a broad-spectrum combination wormer containing ivermectin plus praziquantel e.g. Eqvalan‚ Duo, which controls both tapeworms as well as other important parasites.Alternatively use a specific treatment for Tapeworms such as a double dose of a pyrantel or a praziquantel treatment. A second treatment for Tapeworms can be given ten weeks after turnout. Where horses are grazed all year round this second treatment should be given in February.

Bots can be targeted in December, after the first frost has killed off the adult flies, using an ML-based product. Different products control varying numbers of bot species and lifecycle stages of this parasite. Ivermectin based products provide the most comprehensive control. Bot eggs can be removed with a specially designed Bot comb during the summer months.

There may also be a need to control encysted Small Redworms.Young and veteran horses are more likely to be susceptible to this parasite stage. This can be done in November with either a five-day course of fenbendazole or using a treatment of moxidectin.

In ‘at risk’ horses such a treatment should be complementary, but not replaced thorough a preventative worming programme during the year, combined with good pasture management.
WHERE TO BUY WORMERS & ADMINISTRATION

Wormers can be purchased from veterinary surgeons or from saddlers and merchants whose premises are icensed by the Pharmaceutical Society of Great Britain.

Take care when administering wormers to ensure that the correct dose is given and to avoid wastage. Check labels for any warnings or contraindications e.g. use in foals. If you are using oral syringes, firstly identify the correct dose then remove the syringe cap. Guide the syringe into the corner of the horse’s mouth and aim it toward the back of the tongue before dispensing the wormer. It may be necessary to raise the horse’s head briefly to ensure that the wormer is swallowed.

If administering wormers in the horse’s feed, mix the dose into part of the normal ration, if necessary, add succulents to tempt the horse. Once the wormer has been eaten, the remaining ration can be fed.

Seek veterinary advice for further details about worming horses and to check the effectiveness of your worming programme. Always contact your veterinary surgeon if your horse has diarrhoea (scour), shows signs of colic or loss of body condition.

All new horses should be wormed on arrival and kept stabled or in a yard for 48 hours before being turned out with existing horses. To ensure that you are not bringing resistant worms into your yard these should be treated with a ML-based product.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Research BHS

With Christmas now upon us, I thought it was time for a little bit of Christamas cheer. I came across this Christmas story a couple of years ago and I thought it would make a nice post for the festive period, so read and enjoy. Have alovely Christmas thank you all for your comments, keep em coming and I will be back in the New Year with morte tips and advise to help you and your horses enjoy a healthy happy time.

The year horses saved Christmas – a Christmas story by Neil Clarkson

Comet was a wise old horse much admired by his paddock mates. He had shouldered the responsibility of running the herd for a good 20 years now – a firm but fair leader.
But everyone knew the weight of responsibility spread far beyond the 20 hectares they quietly grazed at Yuletide Stud in lush hills north of Auckland.

Comet had a secret. He admitted that much. But he was not about to tell his paddock mates.

Every Christmas Eve he was seen scanning the horizon as the stars twinkled into life. No one knew why, and no one dared ask. The horses always enjoyed their extra rations as each new Christmas dawned, but nothing could prepare them for the magic of this night.

Christmas Eve had begun like any other. A cool sea breeze added a chill to the night air. Midnight came and the horses watched the moon creep above the horizon. It was just after 2am when the wind suddenly died away. For a moment the stars appeared to shine even brighter.

Then, the unmistakable sound of hooves could be heard in the paddock! The horses swung around to see what the moonlight would reveal. There, barely visible in the gloom, was Santa’s sleigh, parked in their very own paddock!

The reindeer shuffled about, keen to pick at the grass. The Old Man made a sprightly leap from his seat and set about rummaging through the mountain of toys at the back of his sleigh.

Why was Santa visiting them?

 
Before they knew it, he was marching towards them with a big bag of carrots slung over his shoulder.

“Merry Christmas, my fine equine friends,” he said.  Everyone was speechless – everyone, that is, except Comet.

“Santa,” he said. “It’s great to see you again.”

“Likewise, Comet,” he replied. “And what a fine bunch of young horses you have here.”

Comet nodded in agreement.

“I guess we have some explaining to do,” said Santa. “These young horses need a little lesson on the magic of Christmas.”

Santa, they discovered, was a great storyteller.

He took them back five years, to that fateful day in 2003 when he was sitting in his executive suite …

Christmas Inc is the biggest corporation in the Arctic Circle. Its high-rise ice skyscraper is one of the great engineering wonders of the northern hemisphere. Global warming has melted the top two storeys but it’s still the tallest building in the Arctic.

Santa occupies the executive suite on the 93rd floor. Two weeks before Christmas, 2003, Santa was sitting at his desk.

The numbers on his spreadsheet did not look good. The 50,000 elves employed in toy-making were four days behind the production schedule that ensured all toys were completed and checked by Christmas Eve.

He was way over budget with raw materials and the toy wrappers were behind, too. What more could possibly go wrong, he wondered?

The phone rang. It was his reindeer stable foreman. Santa knew all of his 75,000 staff by name. “James,” he said. “How are the reindeer, my friend?” he asked.

 ”The news is not good, Santa,” James replied. “They have all caught a very nasty cold. It could be the flu. I’m not sure we can get them well enough for Christmas Eve.”

Santa slumped in his chair. Why now, he thought? Why right on the verge of Christmas?

James assured Santa that he could find plenty of other reindeer to pull the sleigh.

“That just won’t do,” Santa explained. “Without the magic, we have nothing.”

With that, Santa called an emergency meeting of his Christmas board. Back-up reindeer would not do, he explained. He needed big, powerful animals able to get the sleigh to 30kmh before lift-off.

“What about horses?” asked his chief accountant, Penny Moneybags.

“That’s a fine idea,” said Santa, “but they must be special horses. Here’s what I want you to do …”

Santa issued very specific instructions and, within minutes, his personal jet, a Boeing 747 resplendent with a big red nose, was taxiing for take-off.

As the next three or four days unfolded, the mysterious red-nosed jet was seen landing at airports all over the world, always in the dead of night.

 
Airport staff swore they could hear the clop of horse hooves on the tarmac but no-one could be sure.

It was seen in Auckland, London and Copenhagen. It even made the news in New York, but no-one knew who owned the plane or what it was doing.

With four days to Christmas, the giant jet touched down back in the frozen north and eight bewildered horses walked off the plane into the chill Arctic air.

Santa was there to greet them. “You are here to save Christmas,” he told them. “You must pull the sleigh.”

“But Santa,” replied one, “none of us can fly!”

Santa was unperturbed. “Our stable foreman will give you all the training you need.”

None of horses pretended it was easy. They were broken to harness in a day and, while unused to snow and ice, were able to pull Santa’s sleigh at a reasonable speed once they had studded shoes fitted. But could they fly?

Not a chance.

Christmas Eve dawned and none of the horses had any idea how they were going to take Santa’s sleigh, laden with so many toys, around the world that night.

They ate a hearty dinner of alfalfa hay before Santa, his red outfit fresh back from the drycleaners, arrived to talk to them.

 ”Santa,” said one, “I fear we are going to disappoint you. Not one of us can fly!”

“Please,” said Santa. “tell me your names”

“I’m Dasher,” said one.

“I’m Dancer,” said another.

“I’m Prancer.”

“I’m Vixen.”

Comet, Cupid, Donner and Blitzen also introduced themselves to the grand old man.

“The magic,” said Santa, “is in your names.”

“There was no way we could ever find eight reindeer with the same names to replace my sick friends. But I knew if we scoured the globe we could find eight horses,” Santa explained.

“Did you know that we have horses here from every continent, from Shetlands to Clydesdales?” he added.

Dusk began to fall and Santa’s team was loading the last late toys on to the sleigh.

Overtime and extra shifts had got toy-making back on schedule.

The horses nervously shuffled about as they waited in harness, the massive sleigh hitched up behind.

The last sliver of sun disappeared below the horizon and, on Santa’s orders, the horses moved off. They gathered speed across the ice.

They heard Santa’s raised voice from behind: “Now, Dasher! Now, Dancer! Now, Prancer and Vixen! On, Comet! On, Cupid! On, Donner and Blitzen!”

Onward they pressed, their trot turning to a canter. At 25kmh their legs felt strangely lighter. At 30 they were airborne!

Santa later confessed to a serious strategic error.

While the horses had been trained to use harness, he confessed he should have put a little more effort into the flying.

No-one pretended it was pretty. At times, they had a lot of trouble stopping and knocked off hundreds of roof tiles. They bowled a few front fences and Santa left a special gift for a Mrs Harrison in Sydney because they accidentally trampled her award-winning flower garden.

But there was also a pleasant surprise. Santa discovered that the horses were much quicker than reindeer! The team crossed the Pacific in a record 96 minutes, passing airliners as if they were going backwards.

Miraculously, as the sun warmed the eastern skyline at dawn, they found themselves flashing across the sky on their way back to the North Pole.

What an adventure!

As dawn broke the horses were tucking into the tastiest hay they had ever enjoyed.

“You have all done a fantastic job,” said Santa. “But there is only 364 days to next Christmas and I have much to do. There are budgets to be worked out, contracts to sign. Many thanks for doing such a splendid job.”

“Comet,” he said, “could I have a word with you before you all board my jet for the trip home.”

Within three days, the eight horses had been returned home, each one sworn to secrecy – including Comet.
***       ***       ***
The horses gathered around Santa could scarcely believe what they had heard.

“So you know Comet because he pulled your sleigh?” asked one.

“That’s right,” said Santa.

“So why are you telling us all this?” asked another.

“Because I need your help,” Santa explained.

“The day may come again when I need horses to pull my sleigh. I may not have the time to send my jet around the world finding horses with the eight magical names.

“We figured it would be best if we created a herd specially to pull my sleigh in an emergency. And you’re it!”

The horses looked puzzled.

“But Santa,” said one. “My name is Bubbles!”

“And mine is Sam,” said another.

“I’m Sparky,” added a third.

“And I’m called Rocket,” said another.

At that moment a light came on at the farmhouse.

 Noel, their caregiver, had risen and was pulling on his farm gear. Before long he was making his way across the paddock with a bundle of paperwork under his arm.

“Santa, it’s good to see you again.”

The horses were amazed that he, too, knew Santa.

“It’s great to see you, too, Noel,” replied Santa. “You’ve done a great job with the horses. They’re looking fantastic.”

“It’s very nice of you to say so. How are flying conditions tonight?”

“There’s a hurricane over the Atlantic that I had to skirt around and a nasty cold front in the Tasman Sea, but apart from that the going has been pretty good.”

The horses were restless, still waiting for a full explanation.

“Bubbles, Rocket, all of you, these are your paddock names,” explained Santa. “Noel has your official registration papers. Take a look.”

The herd gathered around and could not believe their eyes. Bubbles was really named Yuletide Donner, Rocket was Yuletide Blitzen. Sparky discovered he was Yuletide Prancer!

“You all share your names with my reindeer. One day, you too may well be called upon to save Christmas,” explained Santa.

The horses were lost for words. One day, the responsibility of getting presents to children all around the world could rest on their withers!

Santa glanced at his watch. “I do have a problem,” he confessed. “Which of you is Blitzen?”

“That’s me!” cried Rocket.

Santa smiled. “Blitzen has a badly sprained ankle. He caught it in some spouting and he’s not good. We’re falling behind. Do you think you’d be able to help out?”

Within minutes, Rocket was in harness and, in the twinkle of a star, the team was gone.

 Christmas dawned and a few locals commented on the strange-looking deer grazing with the horses at Yuletide Farm.

A few days later, in the dead of night, that mysterious jumbo jet with the red nose touched down at Auckland Airport. Staff enjoying a coffee in the cafeteria were certain they heard the sound of hooves but no one could see anything in the moonless night.

Next morning, the reindeer was gone from Yuletide Farm and Rocket was quietly grazing back with his mates.

It transpired that Santa wasn’t the only good storyteller! Rocket dined out for weeks on tales of his adventures across Africa, Australia and Europe.

The excitement eventually died away and life returned to normal on Yuletide Farm.

But the horses knew that it was only a matter of time.

One day, all eight of them would be called upon to save Christmas………………………………

Merry Christmas

The Stable Doctor 

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/ 

Advice is given without legal responsibility

The reason we turn our horses out in to a paddock is to provide adequate grass for feed and enough space for healthy exercise and horse contentment. These are the basic needs that all horse owners need to consider.

By following these steps set out below you will ensure that your horse’s pasture is in the best possible condition and that he/she is provided with everything they need in the field.

Pasture Planning And Budgeting

The cost of maintaining good quality grass and grazing land in good heart is normally more than compensated for by an improved equine health, lower feed and vets bills and better horse performance. Where paddocks are over stocked, poorly managed and allowed to get out of control, the results can be disastrous.

A planned pasture maintenance programme with rest or break as part of the rotation is a key factor in good horse grass management. Choosing the right fertiliser is equally important.

Initial Field Care And Safety Checks Before Moving Horses On To New Pasture

It is important to check the field condition and if possible it’s history. What is the state of fertility, weed incidence, worm burden,drainage, poaching, lime status of soil and appearance of grass? Are the hedges and fencing satisfactory and is adequate clean drinking water available?

It is most important to make sure there are no poisonous weeds present. Ragwort, whether it is alive or dead can inflict incurable liver disease and ultimately a most painful death. Poisonous weeds should be pulled up/dug out and burned or carried away – or alternatively treated with an appropriate weed killer and the dead matter removed and safely disposed of.

A paddock needing weed control

If using a herbicide carefully follow the instructions. Always rest the field after applying chemicals until they have bio-degraded. If unsure about weed identification, seek further expert advice.

If the pasture is badly poached, it probably indicates poor drainage. Check the ditches after rain to see whether any drains present are running and look for wet spots and boggy areas.

Seeding

Areas that need reseeding should be raked or harrowed and dressed by hand broadcasting direct drilling or injection with a good reputable horse paddock seeds mixture. Choose a mixture with up to 50% of two or three perennial ryegrasses, 25% creeping red fescues and cocksfoot if the land is dry. Use rough stalked meadow grass if it is wet.

How To Care For Your Horse’s Paddock

Seeding can be done from April to October providing adequate moisture and irrigation is available. A light dressing of fertiliser 2/3 weeks before sowing will help get quick establishment of the sward.

Ploughing and total re seeding should be avoided if at all possible, and only undertaken as a last resort.

Some horse owners also provide an area at one end or headland of a paddock – or a grazing strip with beneficial herbs such as fenugreek, vetch and comfrey. These can be a useful source of minerals, but it is generally more practical to supply these as a feed supplement or mineral block in the field.

Field Division Rest And Rotation

Horse pasture ideally needs to be divided into separate grazing areas. Electric fencing is a convenient and flexible means of splitting a paddock to get controlled grazing. Where convenient sized sufficient paddocks are available however, maintenance and resting periods should not be a problem.

It is important that pasture doesn’t become ‘horse sick’ and that stock rotation and field rest are practiced to avoid this.

Managing Rotation

Grazing Horses may be put out to graze on a fresh area once any fertiliser has been washed in. It is a good idea to worm horses before moving them onto fresh pasture, and also clear away any horse droppings. Worm infestation can seriously impair a horses health and temperament.

Assuming the initial care as above has been carried out, horses grazing with cattle or sheep affected by the same species of worm that afflict equines and cattle or sheep should really be left to graze and ‘clean up’ after the horses are taken out. Bovines also tend to graze less selectively than horses and graze off the rough area and weeds that horses tend to leave.Topping of rough grasses may otherwise be required.

Rest And Re-Growth

spiked chain harrows should be used to spread any droppings and aerate the soil.Spreading the droppings exposes the worm eggs to weathering and helps kill them off by frost and heat exposure. This should be done in drying conditions. Grass heavily infested with moss however should not be harrowed as this spreads the spores.

A dressing of Iron Sulphate or moss herbicide may be advisable if the problem is severe. Extra fertiliser can be given at the start of any rest period. Harrowing in early spring can help remove dead matted grass from around the roots and subsequent rolling should improve tillering and the production of more leaves. Rolling may also be carried out to push in stones and level out poached areas, but should not be overdone.

Getting The Right Fertiliser Programme

Soil that is impoverished and nutrient deficient will not only produce little grass of poor quality, but will allow weeds to ‘compete’ with the grass for nutrients and risk inducing nutritional problems for the grazing animal.

It is certainly advisable and may be very important to know the fertility level of the pasture before deciding on what fertiliser to apply, and particularly the pH or lime status.

Ideally the pH should be between 6.25 and 6.75 (slightly acidic) and it is recommended that if possible you ask your local lime merchant to test the field and calculate the amount of any lime that may be required.

Failing that for us DIY exponents, there are various soil testing kits available or pH meters that will give a useful guide.

Alternatively soil samples can be taken and sent to a laboratory for analysis. The analysis report will normally give the pH and show the amount of Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K) and Magnesium (Mg) available.

Generally fields require a dressing of lime every 3/4 years unless on chalk/limestone areas. Soils that are low in Magnesium should be given Dolomitic Limestone. Calcified seaweed is also a useful source of lime and trace elements and is complimentary to fertilisers.

Clover

Clover mix

Whilst a proportion of clover can be beneficial in grazing pastures and helps build up the soils nitrogen reserves, too much clover can be too rich and cause digestive problems for horses and lead to an imbalance of soluble carbohydrates and the Calcium:Phosphate ratio of the herbage.

Preferably pasture (or hay) should not contain more than about 40% clover and preferably less. Where there is a danger, it is recommended Ammonia Sulphate 21%N be used. Providing nitrogen in this form and reducing the phosphate input will tend to inhibit the growth of clover. In the event of clover becoming a serious threat to horse health a suitable herbicide may be required.

Laminitis

Laminitis is a complex and serious disease of equines and manifests itself by painful inflammation of the fleshy laminae in the feet, which can be crippling and if not treated, fatal. The problem is generally the result of a build up of endotoxins by the micro-organisms of the gut, often as a result of ingesting too much soluble carbohydrate from an over-rich spring flush of grass but also by Calcium:Phosphorus imbalance.

Luxury uptake by the grass from excess nitrates i.e. quick acting chemical forms of Nitrogen) should be avoided. It is important therefore to use a balanced fertiliser, which contains no added quick acting nitrates.

Horses that are prone to laminitis should be kept off the grass during spring or only allowed restricted access.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

The former are likely the places where you find the majority of horse droppings. If the grazing on the rest of the field is sparse, your horse will graze closer and closer to the weeds which are likely infested with parasites.

Other parts of your field might be devoid of grass completely – perhaps where the horse shelters under trees or the area around the gate. In wet weather this can become extremely boggy which makes getting horses in and out tricky at the best of times while providing much hilarity to any observers!

If large segments of your pasture are in a poor state this will have a negative affect on the health of the horses and ponies using it. The more dominant horses grazed on this type of pasture will muscle in on the weaker herd.

You may find that weight loss is inevitable unless the grazing is supplemented by hay or haylage.

How Can It Be Prevented?

The over grazing of pasture is often the cause of poor pasture health.  The BHS recommend that each horse should have 2/3 – 1 acre each.  Even at these densities pasture will still become “Horse Sick” if the following management practices are not undertaken.

1. Pick the droppings from the field at least every week, but preferably daily.
2. Keep your horses wormed and vaccinated.
3. Ensure that the land is free draining; if water logging regularly occurs then consider mole draining.  If the land is low lying it may not be suitable for horses.
4. Divide the land up into 3 or 4 paddocks so that you can turn out in 1 paddock while resting, working on or grazing complimentary animals in the other paddocks.
5. Follow an annual regime of pasture care. In addition, if you have got native breeds like Shetlands, which are particularly susceptible to laminitis or colic then small turnout areas will need to be fenced off to prevent over grazing.

I will shortly be posting an article on maintaining paddocks detailing what you need to do to prepare your paddocks before your horses even go on the land, right through to the yearly routines it is best to follow to ensure good quality grazing .

But for now  if you would like to read  how much pasture your horses may need click http://blog.primestables.co.uk/how-do-i-decide-how-much-pasture-and-grazing-is-required-for-horses

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Research: Total Horse Expert

A number of my equestrian friends have been asking me to put this article together as they feel that many horse owners would really benefit from some definitive information on Haylage, and how to best to buy, feed and store it. 

So lets get started, what is Haylage?
Haylage is stored ready for delivery and is  a replacement for hay and provides winter feed or an additional feed supplement.
Grasses are grown and cut in the same way as for hay but it is left to dry for less time. Ideally until it has approximately 30-40% moisture content. 

Haylage stored ready for delivery

The Bales are wrapped straight after baling and are compressed to approximately two thirds of the original size, which aides storage.
Natural fermentation preserves the grass as haylage and it has about 90% the feed value of grass.
Haylage can be thought of as highly nutritional hay that does not have dust and spores present.
Horse haylage is not the same as silage. (silage is a fermented, high moisture feed and usually not suitable for horses and is generally fed to cattle).
Why Feed Your Horse With Haylage? 

Haylage is a very good source of fibre and fibre is vital for the movement of food along the digestive system.
Horses are designed for browsing oreating little but often, therefore slowly chewing haylage is more desirable than a bucket of hard feed eaten in a couple of minutes.
Feeding haylage can provide as much energy and protein as a hard feed, therefore saving money and being much kinder to the digestive system.
Replacing some or all hard feed with good quality haylage for horses could also help to reduce boredom in the stable. 

By feeding your horse with Haylage you may avoid respiratory problems in future or it use may aid in managing a current respiratory disease.
With Haylage there is no need for soaking as with hay – this is a real benefit, especially when water freezes as haylage needs no soaking. 

How Much Haylage Should I Feed My Horse? 

Small bales are available that you can pick up in your car

According to the BHS Stage 3 guidelines, a horse in light to medium work and kept stabled for much of the time should be given 2.5% of it’s body weight in food, with about 70-75% of that being forage ie. hay or haylage. 

This would mean that a 16hd  horse of approx 600Kg would need about 11Kg of hay or haylage per day. Whereas, a 11hd Welsh pony that weighs approx 300Kg would need only about 5Kg of hay or haylage per day. 

Of course this only a general and vague guide. Remember each horse should be treated independently.The quality and amount of grazing available at various times of the year will also affect the amount of haylage used. Also the type and amount of exercise and breed of horse will be very significant when calculating the daily food rations. 

When Not To Feed A Horse Haylage.
Check each bale and if the wrapping has been damaged do not use it because the air and wet will have gotten in to the feed which means fungal spores may be present. You risk making your horse sick if you take a chance  feeding a bale that has damaged wrapping.  Patching up holes is not acceptable!
Small bales are available that you can pick up in your car. 

If the haylage is wet – this is possibly a sign of secondary fermentation and so another reason it needs to be avoided.
If there are white mould patches this is a sure sign of fermented and poisonous feed.
Some horses and ponies  are prone to laminitis because of the higher protein and energy content of haylage vs hay. It is wise to check with your vet if your horse is susceptible to these ailments before feeding with Haylage. 

What Else Should You Think About?
Remember that the horse’s digestive system is not the same as sheep and cows. Horses are non-ruminants and have relatively small stomachs and a very sensitive digestive tract, where as sheep, cows, goats, deer and other ruminants have a large foregut, the rumen, that can cope quite well with poor quality food before it then passes into the stomach.
Botulism caused by the toxin of the bacterium ‘clostridium botulinum’ can be found in decaying plant and animal matter and in soil. It thrives in wet warm conditions but is now thought to be rare in UK due to improved farming methods and increasing awareness. Therefore ensure that you check each  bale that you use and ensure that it is not rotten, has no dead animal matter nearby, rats etc. and is free from soil.
Try to avoid equine respiratory problems before they occur – symptoms can appear many years after the initial damage.  When feeding haylage to horses, always try to feed horses from the clean, mud free floor. It is more naturally beneficial for a horses respiratory and lymphatic system, teeth occlusion and for the back muscles. So, avoid haylage nets and haylage racks in stables and fields, instead use low-level haylage feeders, such as the Haybar. 

It is important to discard old uneaten haylage from your stable or field daily. Try to avoid  storing bales of haylage where cats and dogs may scratch or climb on them or birds pecking at them as this is another opportunity for the haylage to become contaminated.
Bales should be opened straight away and used within a week  in colder temperatures or within 3-4 days  in warm weather. Green cloured wrapping is less likely than black wrapping to be pecked by birds. It also keeps cooler in the summer and can show up damage more easily. 

That’s about it other that to say it is your local farmers who now supply your haylage. They have diversified in to this crop over the last decade or so. They will deliver regularly for you. Find a supplier who keeps to delivery dates and does not offer damaged bales to you. 

Any questions on haylage,  just ask by printing in the box below and I will do my best to get an answer for you. 

The Stable Doctor 

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/ 

Advice is given without legal responsibility 

Research: smallbalehaylage 

What Prime Stables will do for you

Unless your new buildings fall under permitted development rights http://blog.primestables.co.uk/permitted-development you will probably find that you need to apply for planning permission for your new stables. garaging, hay-barns etc.

For a small fee that is fully refundable against your order, Prime Stables will draw up for you the relevant scaled drawings that you will need for your planning application. They will provide the location plan, a cross section drawing and a full specification.

Elevation Drawings-Prime Stables Premier Range

This will show your Local Authority Planning Department everything they will need to know. The plans will show the size, the design and positioning on your land and how it relates to your neighbours land.

Once an application package has been received by your local planning authority, they check it to ensure it has all the necessary information as part of the package. If they feel it isn’t correct for some reason, or they feel that there are errors or omissions, they will not register the application and will contact you by letter, to request that the missing or incorrect information is provided.

Unfortunately if this does happen it can take two or three weeks for the planning authority to notify you of the problem and then you may take another few weeks to gather the missing information, or correct the error. Some of our clients have attempted to make applications themselves, supported by information from their supplier or manufacturer, only to find that the planning authority will not accept the application because of omissions or errors.

Prime Stables have supplied many of their clients architectural plans, all fully completed and ready for a planning application.  As experts in this field, you can be confident of receiving  well set out, clear, understandable sets of working drawings.

Once the application has been determined by the planning authority as correct, they will formally register it and validate the application and you’ll be formally notified by letter as to when you can expect a decision. It’s perhaps worth noting here that every planning authority is actually measured on how long it takes to determine a planning application and the target is for applications to take 8 weeks from the date of validation to the decision being made.

Part of the planning procedure involves consulting with your immediate neighbours and other interested parties, in general terms, this means anybody that the planning authority feels is ‘affected’ by your proposal. So as well as your neighbours, this list of consultees may also include the environment agency, your local parish council, your local councillors, the highway department of the local council, conservation officer’s of the local council, your local environmental health department – the number and type of consultees will depend entirely upon what your proposal is for and the planning authority’s view about it’s impact.

Generally speaking private equestrian planning applications are dealt with under delegated powers, where a planning officer will visit the application site and make an appraisal and assessment of the application by comparing it against both the local and national policies they feel are relevant, they will also take any comments from the consultees into consideration as part of this process. It’s quite unusual for a planning officer to visit the site before the consultation period is complete, so it’s quite common that the first time a planning officer see’s the application site, to be in week 5 or 6 of the 8 week application period.

Sometimes a proposal cannot be dealt with under delegated powers and if that is the case, it will be referred to the planning authority’s development control or planning committee, for them to determine. There are a number of reasons why this may happen, the most common ones being that the scale of the proposal is too large to be dealt with under delegated powers, or maybe a large number of complaints have been received, or perhaps one of the local councillors’ feels that it should be dealt with by the committee, rather than the planning officer. If an application is referred to the committee, then a planning officer will still carryout the appraisal and assessment of the application and put a report together for the committee to refer to.

Because most planning decisions are about balancing different, and often conflicting considerations there will inevitably be arguments for and against a proposal. In making the decision, a judgement has to be made as to which argument outweighs the other. If the planning officer feels that changes need to be made to the application to make it more acceptable,  then in theory, they should contact you to discuss what they feel may need changing; in practice, because of the time issues involved (remember the 8 week target date), they don’t often do this, they simply refuse it and give you the reasons why they felt the need to refuse it.

Whilst we are more than happy to make you fully aware of the planning procedures so that you can deal with the planning authority yourself, more often than not with equestrian planning applications we would recommend that you use a planning consultant for the application who will deal with the relevant planning officer on your behalf and present your application in a full and professional manner, giving your application the best chance for success.

You planning consultant will attempt to get the planning officers view about the application, before the end of the 8 week application period. That way if they do have an issue with an application, it can be openly discussed and hopefully resolved between all parties, so that a potential refusal is turned into a successful planning approval.

If you do find yourself in the unfortunate position of having your application refused, then you do still have rights of appeal against the decision, through the planning inspectorate. It’s worth noting that only the applicant has any rights of appeal against a planning decision, so if your planning application is successful nobody has the right to appeal against it in a further attempt to get it refused.

Finally, if all else fails, you can always install mobile field shelters, these do not require any planning permission and can be a quick instant answer to many equestrian needs.

Mobile Field Shelters Make Great Temporary Stabling Whilst Waiting For A More Substantial Stable Block To Have Planning Permission Passed

To read why mobile buildings do not require planning permission click http://blog.primestables.co.uk/horse-shelter

I trust you now know how to proceed with a planning application. If I have not answered all of your questions on the subject, post your questions below and I will do my utmost to answer you. Alternatively contact Prime Stables direct.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

With winter closing in, I thought for todays post we would look at a topic that is topical and important for all horse owners at this time of year. Therefore, it is always best to take the approach that prevention is ultimately better than cure and inoculation can provide horses with immunity against commonly occurring debilitating infections.

The principle of all vaccinations is to initiate a course of injections followed by ‘booster’doses at various intervals, depending on the type of vaccine and the immunity provided.

IS YOUR HORSE PROTECTED

It is advisable to vaccinate all horses and ponies against commonly occurring diseases,such as TETANUS & INFLUENZA.Your horse is the most susceptible of alldomestic animals to TETANUS.

The causalorganism (the bacterium Clostridium tetani) is commonly found in the soil and may be present in horses’ faeces. It usually enters the body via wounds, especially deep and penetrating wounds such as those
caused by sharp objects penetrating the sole of the hoof.

Deep puncture wounds provide an ideal site for infection. The TETANUS organism only thrives in an environment deprived of oxygen which is characteristic of this type of wound. You must call your veterinary surgeon immediately if your horse has a deep penetrating wound.

The vet may administer either tetanus antitoxin or a booster dose of vaccine, depending on when your horse was last vaccinated. Only rarely will veterinary treatment save an animal, once signs of infection becomes apparent, but immediate veterinary attention is essential.

The usual incubation period for tetanus is one to three weeks, the first signs being progressive stiffness and a reluctance to move. Muscles in the region of the wound or hind limbs are normally first to be affected. Spasms of the head muscles cause difficulty in chewing (hence the common name, ‘lockjaw’), flaring of the nostrils and a classic startled expression.

The ears may be erect, the tail held out and the animal’s reflex reactions to sudden movements or noise are heightened, causing more violent, general spasms. The temperature may rise to 43 Regular vaccination of ALL horses and ponies, against TETANUS, is absolutely essential.

The mortality rate may be as high as 90%; in the few animals that recover there is a convalescent period of around 6 weeks.

Vaccination is quick, simple and highly effective and the only practical means of longterm protection. Permanent vaccination with tetanus toxoid can be started at any age from three months onwards.

The course consists of two primary injections given approximately four weeks apart, followed by a booster vaccination a year later,and thereafter at 2- 5 yearly intervals.

In addition to vaccination, good hygiene and management will help in minimising the risk of infection. Regular inspection of hooves and the lower limbs for cuts will assist in spotting potential sites where tetanus may enter.

Clearing yards, paddocks and stables of likely causes of injury (especially barbed wire) is important, to reduce the risk of injury, together with routine disinfection of the premises.

Pregnant mares are often given a TETANUS booster in the later stages of pregnancy (usually in the eleventh month).This thereby increases the antibodies available in the colostrum (first milk), protecting the foal for approximately six weeks. To supplement this many foals are given a tetanus antitoxin soon after birth providing temporary cover of three to four weeks. A further dose can be given at four weeks.

TETANUS vaccination is often coupled with the INFLUENZA vaccination. Several pharmaceutical companies produce combinations of the influenza and tetanus vaccine.

EQUINE INFLUENZA (‘FLU) is a highly contagious, viral disease of the respiratory tract. The first sign which you are likely to notice is a harsh, dry cough which will last for 2-3 weeks and may well persist much longer. Although you may not detect it, the cough will probably have been preceded by a rise in temperature for 1-3 days from the normal 38. Initially there will be a clear discharge from the nostrils, which later becomes thick and purulent.

Equine ‘FLU debilitates a horse or pony,leaving it susceptible to secondary infections.

Influenza can develop into bronchitis or bacterial pneumonia. However, even when there are no complications from any secondary infections, the animal will need to be rested for at least 3 weeks and often considerably longer.
VACCINATION – RULES FOR COMPETITIONS

1. Each horse MUST have a VALID vaccination certificate, which undeniably relates to that horse, completed, signed and stamped on each line by a veterinary surgeon, who is not the owner of the animal.

2. The record must show that the horse has received TWO injections for PRIMARY vaccination against equine influenza given no less than 21 DAYS and no more than 92 DAYS apart. (Only these first two injections need to have been given before the horse may compete).

3. In addition, a first BOOSTER injection must be given no less than 150 days and no more than 215 days after the second primary injection.

4. Subsequently, BOOSTER injections must be given at intervals of not more than 1 year apart, commencing after the first booster injection.

5. None of these injections must be given within the preceding 7 days, including the day of competition or entry into the competition stables.
An infected horse is itself a source of infection to others and it is important to make every effort to isolate infected animals.The incubation period for the disease is only 1-5 days and, with horses remaining infectious for 6-10 days after the onset of clinical signs, it is easy to see how rapidly equine ‘flu takes hold.

It is essential that your veterinary surgeon’s advice is sought, not just at the onset of symptoms but also before restarting exercise.

The only practical way to prevent infection with equine ‘flu viruses is to ask the vet to vaccinate your horse or pony regularly.

There are several ‘flu vaccines available. Different strains and sub-types of influenza viruses occur, the two main types being A/Equi 1 and A/Equi 2.

This vaccine covers against the commonly occurring strains of influenza. However, it should be remembered that influenza viruses vary periodically and are subject to a phenomenon known as antigenic drift. Such variations may result in a breakdown in immunity.

Vaccination against INFLUENZA is highly effective and is now mandatory for all horses using racecourse premises. The vaccination requirements are strict and tightly enforced. It is also advisable to vaccinate all horses that regularly encounter large groups of unfamiliar horses, for example hunters.

INFLUENZA vaccinations are also compulsory for many competition horses. It is important to note that many associations and show organisers insist on all horses holding current vaccination record cards.

Allowing regular ‘flu booster vaccinations to lapse leaves your horse open to infection which could lead to permanent damage and is a contributory factor to fresh epidemics.

It will also incur additional expense for the owner that could be avoided. With the strict rules laid down by the various governing bodies in the horse world, it will be necessary to start a completely new vaccination regime, even if just one booster is missed or is late – even by just one day.

Horses are subject to numerous infections that may cause coughing and a nasal discharge. Just as human colds and other infections may be incorrectly diagnosed as ‘flu, equine ‘flu also has its mimics. ‘The cough’ or ‘the virus’ are terms often heard but usually refer to causes other than equine ‘flu. For instance, many respiratory problems in the horse are due to equine herpes viruses and not ‘flu viruses.

Many stud owners will require proof of vaccination before they allow a mare onto the premises. A vaccine is available to help protect against EHV-1 abortion and the Horserace Betting Levy Board’s Code of Practice recommends vaccination of pregnant mares.

Seek advice from your veterinary surgeon if you are considering putting a mare in foal. Always contact your veterinary surgeon if your horse shows any signs of infection. Failure to get a definitive diagnosis could leave your horse, and others, at risk of complications.

To assist with diagnosis your veterinary surgeon may send swabs or blood samples to a laboratory. Contact your veterinary surgeon for further advice about vaccination, before it’s too late – it’s the responsible thing to do.

Modern veterinary science has developed preventive medicine that is effective, considering the investment you have in your animals and their surroundings it is relatively inexpensive.

As always, please consult a qualified vet before administering any vaccinations. My posts are purely fo your information only. My aim is to add to your equine knowledge, so that  you can make informed choices on how you care for your horses.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/ 

Research: B.H.S.Welfare Department & The Home Of Rest For Horses

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Grass Sickness As the name suggests Equine Grass Sickness (EGS) or Equine Dysautonomia is a disease that affects almost exclusively grass kept animals.

Good Quality Grazing

This devastating disease,  affects the nervous system causing colic, muscle tremors, constipation, weight loss and difficulty swallowing. The cause of grass sickness is unknown despite almost 100 years of investigation.

Research suggests that the damage caused to the nervous system is toxic in nature and it is currently thought that clostridium botulinum, which is a soil associated bacteria, may be involved. Until the cause is discovered it is difficult to give advice regarding prevention.

For owners who have horses in areas where the disease is prevalent, spring and summer can be a worrying time of the year. Stabling the horse during this time can reduce the likelihood of disease especially following cool, dry spells of weather. This is particularly advisable for youngsters that have recently been moved to the premises.

Construction work, leading to pasture disturbance, is another management related risk factor and if building work is taking place it may be advisable to avoid that field. Unfortunately many owners keep horses in situations where they have little say over which field their horse occupies or have no alternative to grazing. These are cases where protective factors should be instigated.

Co-grazing with ruminants is thought to reduce the risk as is hand removal of droppings as opposed to mechanical removal. It has been suggested that supplementary feeding may also help although this is not proven. Often the presenting symptom of EGS is severe colic. Prompt clinical examination from your vet might alert him or her to the possibility of grass sickness or a previous history of the disease in the area might cause suspicion but the only accurate method of making a conclusive diagnosis is by taking a biopsy from a piece of intestine. Unfortunately this is often done at post mortem but can occur during colic surgery.

It is possiblee to take these biopsies under standing sedation. This can avoid the necessity for a general anaesthetic in cases where cost may be an issue. From acute cases, which are euthanased almost immediately, to chronic cases which require round the clock nursing, EGS is a distressing and frustrating problem. Until a cause is found and a form of prevention developed this disease will continue to challenge vets and devastate owners.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/

Advice is given without legal responsibility

To comply with an EU directive that aims to ensure that all horses that have been treated with veterinary medicines are not slaughtered for human consumption, all horses now have to have an equine passport that shows the individual horses history.

The Government and the horse industry believe that other benefits willalso  be realised if all horses have a passport. For example, by discouraging the indiscriminate breeding of horses and ponies that may be of low quality or value.

Further benefits will be realised from the proposed National Equine Database (NED) that will record details of every horse issued with a passport in the UK. This will improve the ability to monitor disease and prevent outbreaks because information about the numbers of horses and contact details for owners will be available. It is envisaged that the NED will provide the equine industry with information for enhanced breeding programmes and research.

The British Horse Society issues equine passports for horses, ponies, mules and donkeys whose breeding is unknown, or who are not eligible for registration with a breed society. As  From July 1st 2009 all horses, ponies, mules and donkeys being issued with a passport for the first time have also had to be microchipped and will be entered on to the Natiional Equine Database.

Therefore, after this date, all applications have had to be submitted with the relevant microchip information for the animal. Failure to produce this documentation will result in the application being rejected.

What is the National Equine Database?

The National Equine Database (NED) is a unique database that contains information about every horse, pony, donkey or mule with a UK passport. Basic details such as age, colour, height are available to view free of charge. Performance, progeny and pedigree details, where available, can be viewed for a registration fee. 

Request an Application Form
To request an application form contact the BHS passport office on 01926 707839 or passports@bhs.org.uk. If applying via email, forward your full postal address and specify how many applications you need.

Completing the Application
There are two options when applying for a BHS equine passport:

• Ask your vet to complete the application, ensuring that they sign and stamp the application form.

• If your animal has a vaccination certificate that has been previously completed, stamped and signed by a vet then you may submit this document with the application.

Animal Name
Please note that your horses name will have to be checked and any horse name that consists of more than one word will be checked against the Central Prefix Register, because each word is checked individually.

For example, if you wished to call your horse Prime Happy Lad, the components “Prime”  “Happy” and “Lad” would each need to be checked individually.  If any of the words show as unavailable then you will be unable to use them.

What Not to Do!
Applications will be rejected for the following reasons:

• Do not submit a BHS passport application with a pre-purchase examination document or vetting certificate to be used as the identification silhouette

• Do not submit an application without the relevant microchip information

• Do not submit incomplete applications. Height, colour, date of birth and microchip details must all be completed.

• Do not send an application completed with breed details, as they will not include that information. If you know your horse’s breed then you need to apply for the passport via the relevant breed society.

This is just brief overview, for more details contact ‘The British Horse Society’ and they will steer you in the right direction.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/ 

Research - The British Horse Society

Advice is given without legal responsibility

Since my last posting on ‘Horse Passports’ a number of people have come up to me asking for more information on the subject, so set out below are some common questions and answers that all relate to what you may be asking yourself. I hope they help you……..

Q. When would I need to produce my horse’s passport?

The passport must be produced within three hours of it being requested by enforcement agencies. The passport may be requested at any time but the most common situations where a horse’s passport will be requested include:

• When the animal is moved into or out of Great Britain

• When the animal is used for the purposes of competitions

• When the animal is moved to the premises of a new keeper

• When the animal is presented at a slaughterhouse for slaughter

• When the animal is sold

• When the animal is used for breeding purposes

Q. Do all horses, ponies and donkeys need an equine passport?
YES. All horses, ponies and donkeys must have an equine passport, even if they never leave their field.

Q. Who enforces equine passport laws?
The Meat Hygiene Service (MHS) are responsible for enforcing the checks carried out at slaughterhouses, and Local Authorities (Trading Standards Departments) are responsible for enforcing the law elsewhere. As with all Government legislation, there are penalties that can be applied by the courts for non-compliance. Most offences attract a fine not exceeding the statutory maximum £5,000, two years imprisonment or both.

Q. What should I do if I lose my horse’s passport?
You need to contact the passport issuing organisation who issued the passport. If you lose a BHS passport then you will need to request a ‘duplicate passport’ form by contacting passports@bhs.org.uk or 01926 707839. They can then reproduce the original passport from their existing records. The duplicate passport will be stamped as a ‘duplicate’ and the section IX will be signed as ‘not for human consumption’. If the original passport is found then the duplicate passport must be return to the BHS immediately.

Q. What should I do with the passport in the event of my horse’s death?
In the event of the death of your horse,  return the passport to the BHS with a covering letter. State whether you would like to have the passport returned to you for sentimental reasons. They will amend their records, which will then be submitted to the National Equine Database. The passport will also be clearly stamped ‘deceased’ to prevent any fraudulent use.

 
Q. How much do BHS passports cost?
• £25 per passport application

• £10 per passport application from an equine charity

• £16 per passport application for multiple (10+) submissions

 
Q. Can I apply for a BHS passport if I don’t like my horse’s current passport?
No. If your horse already has an official EU passport then you can not apply for another passport.

Q. I have brought a horse with a BHS passport, what should I do next?
You need to change the ownership details on the passport within 30 days.

Q. I need to change the ownership details on my new horse’s passport but I did not buy the horse from the current registered owner stated on the passport. What do I do?
Contact the BHS passport office on passports@bhs.org.uk . They may be able to help you contact the current registered owner.

Q. My horse does not have a passport and he does not have a microchip either. What do I need to do?
You must apply for a passport and ask your vet about a microchip. If your horse is a particular breed then you need to apply for a passport via the relevant breed society. For contact details for all Defra approved passport issuing organisations please click here.

If your horse is not a specific breed or is not eligible for registration with a breed society then you can apply for a BHS passport. To request an application form, contact the BHS passport office on passports@bhs.org.uk.   If enquiring via email, forward your full postal address and specify how many applications are required.

Q. A horse that I would like to buy does not have an equine passport, what should I do?
The vendor is committing an offence if they sell the horse without a passport.

Do not complete on the sale of a horse if the passport has not been provided. Make sure that the passport matches the horse in question and request a receipt from the vendor stating the passport number. If you do not receive the horse’s passport, then you will also be committing an offence by transporting the horse to its new premises.

Q. I have brought a horse that has a non-UK EU passport? How do I register the horse in this country?
You should contact the original passport issuing organisation, who may be based in another EU member state. However, if you are unable to contact them, contact the relevant breed society in the UK. A list of UK passport issuing organisations is available on the Defra website. If the horse is not a particular breed then contact the National Equine Database.

I hope that helps. If you have more questions, contact ‘The British Horse Society’.  They will be only to happy to help you.

The Stable Doctor

http://blog.primestables.co.uk/ 

Research - The British Horse Society

Advice is given without legal responsibility